My boss suggested we go to the beach for the afternoon. We took 4 of the office guys, him and I (none of the women would think of coming). We rented a car and within 25 minutes arrived in the little fishing village of Khorameda. It was a few buildings with a trash-covered beach, including many dead creatures... a dog, a puffer fish, a bunch of dead star fish, little fish and other random things.
We tried finding a boat but everyone was on lunch. Finally a guy said,"Okay, I will take you but not for payment." He refused taking any money (I made the joke that instead he would be taking people, haha). Out aways in the boat we hit a giant spread-out beach area and he let us off there. No one made concrete plans for him to return for us, each thinking someone else would take care of it.
Immediately we saw a flock of flying pink flamingos! Then we saw a dead dolphin, 2 dead stingrays... I think the reason all these things are dead is because they get washed up onto the beach and can't get back out, die in the sun.That's my guess. After wandering for a while we hit a 'pool' (what is it called, when there is ocean water trapped in a giant pond with beach all around? An enclave? Nooo...) I asked if it was alright to remove my balto (long black covering dress) - everyone was fine about it and no worries because no one else was near in sight. So there I was, naked. Haha kidding, of course I was wearing pants and a t-shirt under, and that's what I swam in. We swam for almost 2 hours. It was so beautiful - not too hot, warm colorful water - no one was around but us. A couple of the guys had never been in water like that, had no idea how to swim or float. They loved it. As we headed back to our docking area, we realized there was no way for us to get hold of the boat, and we didn't know when they would come.
After hanging around talking about being stranded on the island and discussing who we would eat first, we saw a boat in the distance. We waved our arms like crazy but it passed us. Convinced we'd be there for a while, I went off to one end of the island to meditate for a moment. I saw a boat zooming close with a few Somali men on it. I got this silly thought that if they wanted, they could quickly pull up to the shore, snatch me and take off before the guys could come after me. So I got up and ran, just to be safe.
That same boat followed around the edge of the island and docked. They were coming back from a fishing trip and said they would take us gladly but no of course, we could not pay - they wouldn't allow it.
Their boat was filled with all kinds of fish - mostly boring kinds but also a lot of barracuda. We started pawing through for the best ones(and taking silly photos with them) and finally chose 6 meaty barracuda. We asked our Yemeni friend, to negotiate the price for us. As we docked to the side of Khorameda, the Yemeni owner of the boat came to us. He heard us offering our price and said "Laa!" He told us to take them for free. Of course we protested and even the Yemeni guys with us said, no way we have so much, we have to pay something! Then the boat owner did this flick of his hands to his chin.
Their boat was filled with all kinds of fish - mostly boring kinds but also a lot of barracuda. We started pawing through for the best ones(and taking silly photos with them) and finally chose 6 meaty barracuda. We asked our Yemeni friend, to negotiate the price for us. As we docked to the side of Khorameda, the Yemeni owner of the boat came to us. He heard us offering our price and said "Laa!" He told us to take them for free. Of course we protested and even the Yemeni guys with us said, no way we have so much, we have to pay something! Then the boat owner did this flick of his hands to his chin.
When he did that, all the Yemeni guys said no, we cannot pay him, stop. The flick to the chin meant it would be shameful to us to pay and it is a 'final word'. So we walked away from the shore, now filled of Somali and Yemeni men, all waving us goodbye with our 6 barracuda.Then an old man came to us and they exchanged a bunch of words. I wondered if he was asking for us to pay for something. Turns out he was the sheikh of the village (like the most powerful man, in charge) and he was welcoming us and told us to return anytime, and we could even come to his home. We declined the home visit and went on our way to the village restaurant, where they cooked up 4 of the barracuda for us right then, and we ate a feast.
Can you imagine the kindness!!? So amazing! When we returned to camp, I brought back one of the fish to the women, and they were very excited. We cut it up and spiced it right then, put it in the fridge for tomorrow's lunch. Then they taught me to how make the special Yemeni bread, khobs, and khalas, now I am here on the internet. So so cool. If I could do that every weekend, man oh man... If only I could get the women to come with me.
